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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.